Archive for September, 2009

It is hard to believe tomorrow is October.

Progress has been a challenge, as you already know. We have had to fight for every mile and today was no exception. Now that summer is long gone, the real threat of cold weather is upon us; not to mention the overwhelming distance before us.

From the outside, you would think the Mississippi would be a fairly easy river to tackle. It runs north to south. It cuts through the heart of the most powerful country in the history of human civilization. It has long been and continues to be an important transportation corridor connecting the hinterland with many bustling metropolis’. It is the birthplace of jazz, the blues, gospel, rock and roll and bluegrass and yet it is a river that has been drastically recreated, a river far from its natural state when European eyes first laid eyes on her.

Today we awoke at 6 am, we were on the water by 8 am and we pulled off the water at 6 pm. We had high hopes to sail across Lake Pepin (25 plus miles) and set the record for our most productive day yet. Instead we barely traveled 10 miles in 10 hours as we battled the elements before circuming to the acceptance that the lake could not be crossed in one day, not in these conditions anyways. Tomorrow will be no different except for the fact that it is supposed to rain.

I think I have said this before but I will say it again; expeditions rarely go as planned. They often appear in the present as unending nightmares that were totally self imposed. Sure there are amazing moments but percentage wise, it is usually 80% grind and 20% pleasure.

It wasn’t that today was a bad day or that I did not have fun, because I did; at least for some moments. It’s just that we put in a huge effort and barely moved. I understand that such days will happen, they always do, but it just feels like these days are all that happen out here. I am optomistic that things will swing in our favour one day but for now we just have to be patient and keep doing our best- as that is all we can do.

Now it’s not all bad. Paul and Marylee Orr from Lower Mississippi Riverkeeper sent us the most excellent care package today. We each received our very own pair of real Lousiana shrimping boots (the ferrari of rubber boots) with the most amazing wool socks and a jumper suit. It honestly felt like Christmas. They were sent to Summer at Prairrie Island and she gave them to Brad who owns Harbor Bar in Red Wing, who then dropped them off today on Lake Pepin.

The boots will keep us warm and dry for the weeks ahead, but I do feel guilty. I am out here to help Lower Mississippi Riverkeeper and they just keep spending money and time making sure we are alright.

And so I am asking you for help. Maybe you enjoy reading this blog and like the idea of traveling the Mississippi with us. If you feel any connection to the Old Man River Project I am asking you to please donate to Lower Mississippi Riverkeeper. You can go online to www.lmrk.org and do your thing.

We will make it to the Gulf one day, I promise.

See ya down river,

Brett

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The fire is cooking our evening meal as we sit beside it and watch. We’re on a great beach beside the Mississippi and we have finally entered a new State, Wisconsin! (Minnesota is just across the river).

Today was a day we will all remember…

We sailed yesterday and it was great. This morning we hoped for the same.

There is a mighty distance to cover and with all the unexpected stops, shallow waters and slow current, we now find ourselves in a race against the seasons.

Today the weather was decent to start but the winds were gusty. Only an hour into our morning, a sudden wind snapped our stick (mast). Brutal and very dangerous (this should not happen).

The wind kept coming and the Missssippi became a white water river with 5 foot rollers. The good thing was that the wind was on our tail and it pushed us south as we rode the waves.

We continued on.

ANNIE had just gone through some upgrades and was ready for the new conditions of the river. We removed the floor boards for two reasons. First, they were never treated (ran out of time) and absorbed water making ANNIE heavy and we needed to be lighter (safety).

Second, due to the design of the boat with the floor boards in, we could not bail out water effectively until 3 inches of water already filled the boat – not good enough. I assumed we would take on water either from sailing or big waves and that having a better way to bail water was only logical.

I consulted Gordon Laco, our Marine Consultant, when I thought about removing the boards. I also suggested that we might be better off capping the space between the outwale and inwale to give us a safety from waves and such. This safety would give us 6 inches of freeboard (in theory anyways) that would act as a safety giving us a few seconds to drop sail or shift weight.

Gordon agreed that these options should be implemented. Cliff then thought we could use the floor boards to cap the in/outwales and so we did. That’s the background.

If we had not made those changes it is conceivable that I would not be writting this blog tonight.

As we turned the bend the wind increased – Old Man River was pushing us to our limits.

Pete from Monticello had called and left a message about some extremely strong southwest winds at 45 mph that would be hitting us.

The winds came and they came hard.

I have run rapids on the Ottawa River before (tour guide) but this was a whole other experience. For 9 miles the Mississippi was rocking and we were rolling. On two occassions huge rollers swept the port side sending water rushing in.

We kept calm and kept pushing.

With four oars in the water we muscled our way south. Lock and Dam #2 was close but we were on the opposite side of the river and to cross in such conditions would be costly.

I called the lock to alert them we were coming because we wouldn’t have been able to enter the gate if a barge was going north. We were clear and so we pushed on and angled our bow ever so slightly.

The danger was not just the waves but also the fact that we had left the shipping channel (it zig zagged on the river and we could not do that in the waves) and now we were crossig a man made lake with submerged trees and wing dams. With such huge waves it was impossible to read the water for submerged dangers.

I could see the lock was open (if it was closed the waves would had thrashed us against the dam or over it) and so I ran us into the protection of the lock.

As the lock closed its gate, giant rollers crashed over the stern leaving me wet but relieved. We made it.

A crowd of employees looked down at us in amazement. They could not believe we crossed the lake on such a day. Apparently today’s winds were rare and they had never seen such waves on the lake before. Someone even said “if you can cross that you can do anything”.

Today was an example of why we built a York Boat. A canoe or kayak could not have kept up (professionals pending) but ANNIE never blinked twice. I know those Mom’s reading are probably freaking out – I am sorry but we pushed within our limits and came out alive.

After the lock the waves we not nearly as intense. With no stick left we just kept rowing. That’s my update.

See ya down river,

Brett

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Packing food

Tank cutting up our old floor boards

ANNIE empty with Cliff waving to his Dad and Ma

ANNIE with no more floor boards

View of harbour

Tent and gear drying out after the rain

Watergate Marina
D’day from Watergate Marina,

We have been removed from river travel for the last few days but will be back on the water come tomorrow.

Right now ANNIE is docked at the Watergate Marina located just north of the Minnesota River on the Mighty Mississippi.
Harbour Master Ken has been kind enough to let us dock here for free – thanks! We have been staying with the Nylanders to repack and organize all of our gear plus eat lots of food. It has been great and we have one more night there.

I am pumped to be back on the river tomorrow!

That’s the update for now.

See ya down river,

Brett

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View from my bed on the stern of ANNIE
Here we are…

One month and one day since pushing off from Bemidji State Park and we have finally made it to the Twin Cities.

The journey has been a long one. Ten portages (11 really, but we combined 2) with a 32 foot York Boat changes everything as compared to doing the same distance with a canoe or kayak.

At times it was challenging. Sure we had those moments of doubt but it always seemed like a friendly folk was always around the next bend to cheer us up with some “Minnesota Nice” hospilality.

So many people have helped us. Too many people to thank. The important thing is that you know who you are and on behalf of the crew and the project, we all thank you.

We have much to live up too.

I look back on the journey and I cannot believe all the great people the river has connected us with. From every walk of life, it has been the people that have made this expedition so incredible for us.
My time in Minnesota will go down as some of the best so far during my 27 year stint.

There are 49 other States that have a lot to life up too.

We still have a 1/3 of Minnesota left to cross but I think once we ship out of the Cities it will only take a week or so to enter Wisconsin and soon Iowa.

The first phase of the expedition is complete. Many more phases to come.

Sure we still have a long way to go but that’s a good thing because I am just getting warmed up.

I love the Mississippi River.

I feel so fortunate to have the opportunity to be here doing this expedition. I also feel good knowing were doing a small part to promote the river and make people remember what has been here all along.

The most rewarding part for me is the idea that in some small way, this project is helping spread the word of the Lower Mississippi Riverkeeper and the Waterkeeper movement. I love what Waterkeeer stands for and I strongly urge you to learn more about it at www.waterkeeper.org and www.lmrk.org.

The simple truth of the matter is, that at this very moment in my life, I cannot see myself doing anything else but this – the Mississippi River, Old Man River Project. If someone gave me a millions bucks tomorrow I would still eat oatmeal and row the boat for 8 hours.

My Dad always told me that the key to life is not to focus on how far you have to go but to look back on how far you have come. We have come far and I look forward to the future.

I felt like I needed to reflect now that I am surrounded by millions of people (the Cities) as I type on my blackberry (thanks AT&T for the free service!). We have come along way and it has been amazing and whatever the river presents to us, we will deal with in due time.

For now it is time for bed. It is almost tomorrow, which by the way is going to be great.

See ya down river,

Brett

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Video of us as we enter the cities

insert caption here

Look close!
Greetings,
Just rowing past Coon Rapids. We can now see the skyscrapers – Way Cool!!!
Heading to Nicolet Island. Right now will drop anchor and sleep in our boat unless someone let’s us dock up. All good either way.
Just wanted to share this moment with you all.
Much love – see ya down river.
Brett

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